The Washington Post, 11/9/11
Where once the waters here were almost barren of life, there are now vast schools of randy, spawning big-eyed jacks. The grouper lurking in the thriving coral have reached the size of overindulged toddlers. The tiger sharks are big enough to star in scary movies. The nesting turtles, devil rays and sea lions have returned, too, alongside a few tourists wearing flippers and masks.
Marine scientists confess pure astonishment at what has happened in the 16 years since Cabo Pulmo National Park was created at the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja California, 60 miles north of Cabo San Lucas.
In August, researchers reported that the biomass of fish in the no-take marine reserve had increased by 463 percent in just 10 years, more than a quintupling that is unprecedented and offers hope that, if just left alone for a little while, the planet’s depleted seas can rebound. But all is not well in Cabo Pulmo.